And, by making a mention in Gourmet, Reichl was one of the few people on the international food scene who could transform a chef’s career. Under Reichl, Gourmet wasn’t everyone’s cup of tea, but in an ever-exploding food scene, it remained relevant while still managing to include recipes for everything from chili and spice cake to ramen and shrimp rémoulade. The new millennial Gourmet was where I first read about the star-chef phenomenon, the exploitation endured by illegal immigrants picking tomatoes in Florida, and a little known chef at the time by the name of Ferran Adrià. Photo by Marie-France Coallier / Montreal Gazette Over lunch at Montreal’s Park restaurant, Reichl said, “When I went to Gourmet, I told them that if I’m going to have a platform it had to be something beyond telling rich people where to eat.” Ruth Reichl. Gourmet changed radically under Reichl’s reign, becoming less elitist, less stodgy and more political. The next issue of Montreal Gazette Headline News will soon be in your inbox. If you don't see it, please check your junk folder.
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